by lspeed | Apr 15, 2026 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Tannat occupies a particular corner of the world of wine grapes. Not obscure, not fashionable, and certainly not too eager to please. It is a grape defined by structure first, fruit second, and charm only if time and handling permit. For sommeliers and winemakers, that makes it less a crowd-pleaser and more a study in intent.
Its classical home remains Madiran, a small appellation in southwest France where climate and culture conspired to produce wines of unapologetic density. Set between Atlantic influence and the Pyrenean foothills, Madiran combines humidity, warmth and relatively fertile soils, conditions that encourage vigour in the vineyard and demand discipline from the grower. The result was a style that prized longevity over accessibility, with wines built less for immediate pleasure than for eventual resolution, often requiring a decade or more to soften.
Tannat’s chemical profile of high levels of tannins and anthocyanins give the grape its colour saturation and formidable structure. Thick skins and small berries translate into high extract, and with it, high risk. In the cellar, Tannat offers a narrow margin between authority and excess. Maceration length, temperature control and oxygen management are critical decisions.
From this rather uncompromising base, Tannat made its way to South America in the nineteenth century, carried by Basque and Béarnais immigrants who settled in the Río de la Plata region. In Uruguay, it found conditions that allowed for a more balanced expression. Maritime influence moderates extremes, humidity softens tannic edges, and a generally longer growing season encourages phenolic ripeness without excessive harshness. The resulting wines retain structure but with a more immediate drinkability. Uruguay did not dilute Tannat, it translated it.
Modern winemaking has further shaped this second identity. Techniques such as micro-oxygenation, developed in southwest France but widely adopted in Uruguay, allow earlier polymerisation of tannins. Oak usage has become more measured, avoiding the compounding effect of wood on an already structured variety. The goal is no longer to tame Tannat, but to guide it.
Beyond Uruguay, Tannat remains a specialist’s grape, appearing in several other South American contexts. In Argentina’s Salta and other high-altitude regions, it produces wines of notable concentration, often blended but increasingly bottled varietally. In Brazil’s southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, it plays a supporting but credible role. Peru has experimented with small plantings, mostly in coastal desert vineyards, where the grape ripens easily and sheds some of its harsher edges. Production remains limited and exploratory, but growing. Even in Bolivia, at extreme altitudes, Tannat has begun to appear in niche quantities.
In the glass, Tannat is deep to opaque in colour, centred on black fruit, cocoa, dried herbs and, with age, leather and tobacco. For the sommelier, the clear proposition is that Tannat belongs with protein, with fat, with dishes that require a wine of equal presence. Decanting is compulsory in youth.
Image Credit: https://www.arterrawines.com/a-passion-for-tannat/
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by lspeed | Apr 8, 2026 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Wine grapes, like civil servants, are rarely celebrated for flair. Reliability matters more, and for decades Bobal sat squarely in that camp. Widely planted across eastern Spain, especially around Utiel-Requena, it delivered high yields, deep colour and dependable structure. Charm, however, was never its strength, and its reputation developed accordingly.
Bobal was long the grape of bulk wine and quiet utility, summoned when a blend needed colour, tannin or simply more litres. It was indispensable but seldom admired, the vinous equivalent of a diligent colleague who keeps the back office running yet never features in the annual report.
The issue was not incompetence but excess and indifference. Bobal is naturally vigorous, prone to generous yields if left to its own devices. The result was wine that was sturdy rather than subtle, dark-fruited, firm, and occasionally coarse, much like the stone pitchers in which it is often served.
In an era that rewarded quantity, it did exactly what was asked, but little more. Then came the change in attention and attitude. Over the past two decades, younger Spanish producers have reconsidered Bobal, treating it less as raw material and more as a variety worth understanding. Yields have been curtailed, old vineyards revisited, and cellar work refined.
In short, someone finally paid attention, and the improvement is notable. When handled with restraint, Bobal produces wines of vivid colour and brisk acidity, with flavours that lean towards blackberry, sour cherry and a faintly herbal edge. The tannins remain, but they are better behaved. What once felt heavy can now appear structured.
Its acidity, long seen as awkward, has become an advantage. In warm climates, freshness is no small asset. Bobal retains it naturally, allowing wines to feel lively, a quality increasingly prized by both winemakers and drinkers.
Old vines have proved particularly revealing. Many were planted decades ago and largely neglected during the bulk-production era. Today, these low-yielding plots provide fruit of greater concentration. With careful handling, they yield wines that are not only distinctive but genuinely compelling.
Side projects include Bobal Rosé, once an afterthought, which avoids the sugary clichés of the category. Sparkling versions have appeared as well, suggesting that the grape’s range may yet have more mileage in it. None of this places Bobal among Spain’s wine aristocracy, with Tempranillo remaining the standard-bearer and Garnacha the overall crowd-pleaser.
Bobal’s role is more modest, moving gradually from anonymity to credibility, and for drinkers this evolution has a practical benefit. Bobal remains sensibly priced, its quality having risen faster than its reputation. It offers a reminder that improvement in wine often begins not with invention, but with attention. Given a little discipline and a measure of respect, it may yet have more to say in the future.
Image Credit: https://wikipedia.org
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by lspeed | Jan 25, 2026 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Koshu is one of those grapes that politely ignores everything the global wine market expects it to do. It has been grown in Japan for close to a thousand years, mainly in Yamanashi Prefecture at the foothills of Mount Fuji, and it has no interest whatsoever in being mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, or anything else you may recognise.
From a technical standpoint, we can clear one thing up immediately. Yes, Koshu is a white wine. It is vinified as such, fermented from clear juice with minimal skin contact, bottled pale, dry, and nervously understated. Except that this definition is about as helpful as calling a Samurai’s Katana “just another knife”.
The grape itself has pink skins, visually closer to Pinot Gris than to anything grown in Chablis. Phenolics are vanishingly low, which means even the more adventurous skin contact experiments tend to produce texture rather than tannin. Alcohol levels remain modest, acidity is clean rather than bracing, and the wines seem almost allergic to excess.
If you are looking for volume, ripeness, or swagger, Koshu will not oblige, but whisper instead. Citrus peel rather than citrus fruit. White peach rather than nectarine. Pear skin, green apple, yuzu, sometimes a saline or mineral note that feels more like an echo than a statement. Oak, when used at all, is handled with such restraint that it barely leaves fingerprints. Many producers avoid it entirely, aware that even a hint of wood risks overwhelming the grape’s naturally soft spoken character.
This is where Western tasting frameworks start to wobble. Koshu is deeply unimpressive as a solo glass. Put it in a blind tasting lineup designed around aromatic impact and it will almost certainly finish last, looking faintly embarrassed by the attention. Judge it by Western standards of varietal typicity and it seems incomplete.
Then you put food on the table and everything snaps into focus.
Koshu is not a wine built to be admired, but to behave. Japanese cuisine, with its obsession with umami and balance, has a remarkable ability to make loud wines look clumsy. High alcohol, oak driven whites and fruit forward styles often trip over sashimi, tempura, or lightly grilled fish. Koshu does not. Low phenolics avoid metallic clashes with seafood. Acidity refreshes without cutting. Fruit stays in the background where it belongs in this culinary context.
Sushi, sashimi, tempura, grilled fish, vegetable driven dishes, this is Koshu’s natural habitat. It also performs quietly well with modern Japanese and pan Asian cooking that values restraint over heat. Expecting it to handle rich sauces or aggressive spice is missing the point.
In recent years, Koshu has been gently pushed out of its comfort zone. Sparkling versions sharpen its citrus and saline edges. Amphora ageing adds texture without weight. Skin contact expressions introduce a subtle grip and herbal complexity while stopping well short of orange wine theatrics. These styles are interesting, but they all remain firmly within Koshu’s core philosophy of understatement.
Koshu’s biggest challenge is not quality but expectation. It refuses to shout, and refuses to perform tricks in the glass. In a global wine culture obsessed with power, it feels almost subversive. So yes, Koshu is a white wine in the Western sense. It sits in the white wine category, ticks all the technical boxes, and behaves exactly as it should. But philosophically, it is something else entirely. It is a wine that prioritises harmony over expression and usefulness over ego.
Main Producers & Labels:
All of these producers grow Koshu in Yamanashi’s volcanic soils and cool mountain-influenced climate, which give the wines their characteristic freshness, subtle citrus tones, and food-friendly acidity.
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Grace Wine – Grace Koshu (multiple cuvées)
One of the benchmark producers of Koshu, Grace Wine has been a leader in Japanese wine for over a century and is widely regarded as a standard-bearer for this variety. Their Grace Koshu is pale, refined, and effortless at the table, with subtle citrus and mineral notes that show what this grape can do at its best.
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Suntory Tomi no Oka – Tomi Koshu
The Koshu bottlings from Suntory’s Tomi no Oka estate have gained serious critical attention internationally. Their Tomi Koshu was awarded Best in Show at the Decanter World Wine Awards, striking a balance of elegance and purity that highlights the finesse of the grape.
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Kurambon Wine – N Koshu / N Blanc
A smaller, artisanal family winery with a strong focus on biodynamic and minimal-intervention winemaking. Their N Koshu (often wild-yeast fermented and barrel-aged) is a deeper, more textured expression, while their unoaked, crisp versions showcase Koshu’s light, fresh side.
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Château Mercian – Koshu & Special Labels
Château Mercian is one of the longest-established Japanese wine houses and has been important in getting Koshu recognition domestically and abroad. Their Château Mercian Koshu bottlings demonstrate classic, food-driven style with delicate fruit and minerality.
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Marufuji – Rubaiyat Koshu (Barrel-Aged and Sur Lie styles)
Marufuji’s Rubaiyat Koshu range includes both traditional stainless steel ferments and barrel-aged or sur lie styles, offering a broader palette of expression. From pure and light to rounder, textural wines that still retain Koshu’s signature restraint.
Honourable mentions: Katsunuma Jyozo Winery, Morita Koshu Winery (Chanmoris), Fujiclair Koshu, and boutique producers like 98 Wines.
Image Credit: https://www.koshuvalley.com/wineries
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
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by lspeed | Dec 31, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Winemakers do not abandon grapes because they make bad wine, but because they are awkward. They ripen late, yield little, demand explanations, or refuse to charm the drinker in the first ten seconds. In an industry built on recognisable flavour and predictable behaviour, those traits are not endearing, but commercial liabilities. The grapes below survive not because they are easy, but because a handful of growers have decided that difficulty is not a crime.
Red Wine Grapes
Pineau d’Aunis: Loire Valley, France
Pineau d’Aunis is the master of understatement. Pale in colour, it politely lowers expectations and then immediately ignores them. Aromatically it is all white pepper, rose petal, cranberry and savoury tension, behaving far better at the table than its looks would suggest. This is not a wine for analysis paralysis, but a companion to grilled meat, smoke and fat.
Its long standing issue has never been quality but optics. Low yields and modest colour kept it from competing with darker and louder neighbours. Today it survives largely thanks to producers like Domaine Bellivière and Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, who continue to plant it out of belief rather than demand. Pineau d’Aunis is not disappearing yet, but it does require someone to choose it on purpose.
Persan: Savoie and Isère, France
Persan nearly vanished because it asked growers to work harder for less applause. Late ripening, low yielding and structurally serious, it was replaced by more cooperative varieties without much debate. Which is unfortunate, because Persan delivers exactly what mountain vineyards promise but rarely manage. Depth without weight, tannin without aggression, and acidity that understands food.
The modern revival owes much to Domaine des Ardoisières, whose alpine bottlings gave Persan credibility again, and to producers like Domaine Alphonse Grisard, who quietly prove it can age with dignity. Persan now lives in that narrow economic middle ground where conviction matters more than momentum.
Mouhtaro: Central Greece
Mouhtaro is often described as rescued, which is accurate but slightly misleading, because it implies weakness rather than seriousness. In reality, Mouhtaro produces dark fruited, savoury wines with structure and ageing potential. It is neither rustic nor glossy modern, and simply does the job without fuss.
Estate Samartzis has been central in defining its contemporary identity, while Vourvoukeli Estate offers a slightly more polished interpretation. Mouhtaro is not in immediate danger, but its footprint remains tight. Its future depends less on trends and more on sustained interest in indigenous Greek reds.
St Laurent: Austria
St Laurent suffers from being called Pinot Noir’s cousin, which is like describing a dry aged ribeye as a hamburger upgrade. The comparison sets expectations the grape has no intention of meeting. St Laurent is darker, spicier and more brooding, with cherry, cocoa and forest floor notes, and a slightly feral edge in youth.
It is widely planted and entirely secure in Austria, championed by producers such as Heinrich and Johanneshof Reinisch. Its problem is not survival but neglect. Internationally it remains overshadowed by grapes with louder marketing. St Laurent is not disappearing but waiting to be judged on its own terms.
Baga: Bairrada, Portugal
Baga built its reputation during a period when extraction was considered a personality trait. High tannin, high acidity and no interest in early charm made it an easy scapegoat. In capable hands, however, Baga becomes one of Iberia’s most compelling reds. Savoury, structured and quietly long lived.
Luis Pato set the benchmark decades ago, while Filipa Pato has done more than anyone to rehabilitate the grape without sanding off its edges. Bairrada does not function without Baga, and its issue is not survival but lingering prejudice.
White Wine Grapes
Timorasso: Piedmont, Italy
Timorasso should make producers of expensive white Burgundy mildly uncomfortable. Textural, mineral and quietly powerful, it ages effortlessly and performs superbly at the table. Its near extinction now looks like a collective lapse in judgement.
Walter Massa is the reason Timorasso exists in any meaningful way today. Without him, it would likely be a historical footnote. Producers such as Vietti have since helped bring it wider attention. Timorasso is no longer endangered. The risk now is dilution rather than disappearance.
Savagnin: Jura, France
Savagnin is often described as difficult, which is polite shorthand for uninterested in being charming. Whether topped up or oxidative, it delivers umami, grip and structural authority that few white grapes can match. It does not perform but expects you to pay attention.
Domaine Tissot and Domaine Jean Macle continue to define its range and longevity. Savagnin is protected by appellation rules and regional pride. Culturally and legally it is safe, and its only real vulnerability is being misunderstood.
Dry Furmint: Tokaj, Hungary
Furmint is famous but trapped by its success in sweet wine. Dry Furmint is something else entirely. Taut, mineral and transparent to site, it ages with precision and restraint. One of Central Europe’s great white grapes, quietly operating outside the spotlight or influencer babble.
Istvan Szepsy produces reference examples, while Kiralyudvar demonstrates its stylistic range. Furmint is not going anywhere, and Tokaj as a region depends on it. The problem is not survival, but recognition.
Assyrtiko: Mainland Greece
Santorini dominates the narrative, but mainland Assyrtiko deserves equal respect. Linear, saline and precise, it handles heat, smoke and seafood without theatrics.
Gaia Estate and Ktima Gerovassiliou have shown that Assyrtiko does not require volcanic drama to be compelling. The grape is expanding. The risk here is not extinction, but sameness.
Silvaner: Old Vine Germany
Silvaner’s greatest weakness is subtlety. Old vine examples deliver texture, savoury depth and quiet authority, particularly at the table. They do not shout, which in modern wine culture is a strategic error.
Weingut Rudolf May and Weingut Am Stein remain committed advocates. Silvaner as a grape is safe. Old vine Silvaner is less guaranteed, its future resting on whether growers choose patience over replacement.
Final Harvest
Wine grapes survive not because they become famous, but because they are poured, understood and valued. The ones that vanish rarely fail in the glass, and most of these grapes are not dying. They are simply losing the argument at the wine shop shelf. You ca help change that.
Image Credit: https://freepik.com
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Reprinting, reposting & sharing allowed, in exchange for a backlink and credits
Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Dec 21, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Wine has been many things through history. A social glue. A quiet companion for long evenings. A diplomatic shortcut at questionable business dinners. Yet long before sommeliers debated minerality with alarming seriousness, wine was performing a far loftier task, acting as a bridge between the earthly and the divine. Humanity discovered fermentation, raised a cup, and suddenly the gods felt a touch more approachable. Perhaps they even smiled back after the third glass.
In the ancient world, the marriage between vineyards and temples was entirely logical. A drink that began life as humble grapes and ended with a pleasantly altered world view held a symbolic charm that water could never hope to deliver. In Egypt and Mesopotamia, wine appeared in offerings and royal ceremonies that tracked the seasons. To sip wine was to taste a little witchcraft. To offer it to the gods was generous, diplomatic, and motivated by the desire to avoid unpleasant surprises at harvest time.
Judaism added structure and discipline to the relationship. Wine became part of ritual in a deliberate and thoughtful way. On the Sabbath, the Kiddush blesses a cup of wine that draws a clear line between the working week and sacred time. Passover requires four cups, each representing a stage of liberation. The script is precise, and the mood is contemplative. The wine is there to lift the ceremony, not the celebrant. It is spiritual elevation with well defined boundaries.
Christianity adopted wine and assigned it a weight that shaped centuries of devotion. In the Eucharist, the wine represents the blood of Christ. It is not appreciated for aroma or acidity, but for its deep symbolic meaning. Remembrance, sacrifice, and renewal reside in a single cup. Some communities use wine while others prefer grape juice, yet the message remains intact. Throughout history, a chalice on an altar has stirred more emotion than the grandest wine cellar.
Hindu traditions add their own colourful variation. In most practice, alcohol is avoided, yet certain regional and Tantric rites employ wine as part of tightly controlled ceremonies. These are not opportunities for unabashed merriment. They are precise acts of symbolism, where wine represents transformation and the dissolution of the ordinary self. It functions as a tool for spiritual insight rather than indulgence. The focus is not the palate, but the philosophy.
Ancient Greece and Rome, never shy about fun and festivals, embraced wine with dramatic flair. Dionysus and Bacchus presided over events where wine symbolised freedom, joy, and the delicious tension between order and ecstasy. Despite modern imagination, the symposium was not a reckless drinking spree. It was structured conversation aided by wine, not drowned by it. It encouraged debate, reflection, and occasionally a highly optimistic attempt at poetry or song writing. The ancients understood that a shared cup could unlock a shared state of mind.
Across indigenous and traditional cultures, fermented beverages hold their own sacred authority. Georgian Qvevri wine is blessed at seasonal rituals. Andean Chicha is offered to Pachamama. African palm wine marks marriages, harvests, and rites of passage. In these settings, the drink represents continuity, ancestry, and profound respect for the land – a reminder that life sits atop deep cultural roots.
Take away the stylistic differences and a simple truth emerges. Wine is a small everyday miracle in a glass, a reminder that grapes can improve dramatically with a little patience and the right conditions. People often do the same, especially when a balanced red in your glass gives the world around you a gentle glow.
Of course, everyone knows at least one person who can turn a casual wine tasting note into a theological argument about oak, climate, and the moral duty of proper decanting. When that happens, the best remedy is to drink more wine. You will find peace, and even the most agnostic person in the room will hear the angels sing.
Image Credit: https://freepik.com
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Oct 15, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Few grape varieties have changed the conversation around cool-climate winemaking quite like Solaris. Created in Germany in the 1970s, it has since found a second life in northern Europe and Canada, proving that serious wines can be made in regions once considered too cold or too damp for viticulture.
German beginnings
Solaris was bred in 1975 at the Freiburg Wine Institute, part of an ongoing effort to produce grapes that could withstand northern European conditions. Its lineage is complex – Merzling crossed with a Seyve-Villard hybrid, and a Riesling × Pinot Gris line. The intended result was a grape that ripens early, resists mildew, and still carries the aromatic character winegrowers and drinkers look for. The name, meaning “of the sun,” nods to its ability to ripen quickly and dependably.
What growers value
For a grower, Solaris solves a big problem. It reaches maturity weeks ahead of many vinifera varieties, often by the end of August. In climates where autumn comes fast and frost can destroy a harvest, that reliability is a major advantage. Its resistance to fungal diseases further reduces risk and lowers the need for heavy spraying, which is why it has become popular among organic and low-intervention producers.
What drinkers taste
The wines themselves are surprisingly expressive. Solaris shows tropical fruit, such as pineapple, mango, sometimes passionfruit. In cooler years, the profile shifts toward green apple and lime, bringing it closer to Sauvignon Blanc. Its natural sugars can be high, which gives winemakers the flexibility of creating dry wines with weight and ripeness, late-harvest and icewine styles, or even sparkling wines with crisp fruit.
Where it grows now
Though German by origin, Solaris has been adopted with enthusiasm further north. Sweden and Denmark both produce award-winning examples, using it to define a new style of Scandinavian white wine. In the UK, Solaris joins Bacchus and Pinot Noir Précoce as part of the country’s expanding still-wine portfolio. Canada, particularly Ontario, has also embraced it, where its combination of ripeness and acidity works well for both dry and sweet expressions.
Looking ahead
Solaris is not just a technical solution for challenging climates; it’s also a marker of where wine is heading. As producers search for varieties that need fewer chemical treatments and that can cope with shifting weather patterns, grapes like Solaris offer an alternative to the traditional canon. Consumers, meanwhile, are discovering distinct wines from new places, expanding the definition of what fine wine regions look like.
Image Credit: https://wikipedia.org/
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Reprinting, reposting & sharing allowed, in exchange for a backlink and credits
Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
https://ChurrascoPhuket.com/
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