by lspeed | Dec 31, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Winemakers do not abandon grapes because they make bad wine, but because they are awkward. They ripen late, yield little, demand explanations, or refuse to charm the drinker in the first ten seconds. In an industry built on recognisable flavour and predictable behaviour, those traits are not endearing, but commercial liabilities. The grapes below survive not because they are easy, but because a handful of growers have decided that difficulty is not a crime.
Red Wine Grapes
Pineau d’Aunis: Loire Valley, France
Pineau d’Aunis is the master of understatement. Pale in colour, it politely lowers expectations and then immediately ignores them. Aromatically it is all white pepper, rose petal, cranberry and savoury tension, behaving far better at the table than its looks would suggest. This is not a wine for analysis paralysis, but a companion to grilled meat, smoke and fat.
Its long standing issue has never been quality but optics. Low yields and modest colour kept it from competing with darker and louder neighbours. Today it survives largely thanks to producers like Domaine Bellivière and Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, who continue to plant it out of belief rather than demand. Pineau d’Aunis is not disappearing yet, but it does require someone to choose it on purpose.
Persan: Savoie and Isère, France
Persan nearly vanished because it asked growers to work harder for less applause. Late ripening, low yielding and structurally serious, it was replaced by more cooperative varieties without much debate. Which is unfortunate, because Persan delivers exactly what mountain vineyards promise but rarely manage. Depth without weight, tannin without aggression, and acidity that understands food.
The modern revival owes much to Domaine des Ardoisières, whose alpine bottlings gave Persan credibility again, and to producers like Domaine Alphonse Grisard, who quietly prove it can age with dignity. Persan now lives in that narrow economic middle ground where conviction matters more than momentum.
Mouhtaro: Central Greece
Mouhtaro is often described as rescued, which is accurate but slightly misleading, because it implies weakness rather than seriousness. In reality, Mouhtaro produces dark fruited, savoury wines with structure and ageing potential. It is neither rustic nor glossy modern, and simply does the job without fuss.
Estate Samartzis has been central in defining its contemporary identity, while Vourvoukeli Estate offers a slightly more polished interpretation. Mouhtaro is not in immediate danger, but its footprint remains tight. Its future depends less on trends and more on sustained interest in indigenous Greek reds.
St Laurent: Austria
St Laurent suffers from being called Pinot Noir’s cousin, which is like describing a dry aged ribeye as a hamburger upgrade. The comparison sets expectations the grape has no intention of meeting. St Laurent is darker, spicier and more brooding, with cherry, cocoa and forest floor notes, and a slightly feral edge in youth.
It is widely planted and entirely secure in Austria, championed by producers such as Heinrich and Johanneshof Reinisch. Its problem is not survival but neglect. Internationally it remains overshadowed by grapes with louder marketing. St Laurent is not disappearing but waiting to be judged on its own terms.
Baga: Bairrada, Portugal
Baga built its reputation during a period when extraction was considered a personality trait. High tannin, high acidity and no interest in early charm made it an easy scapegoat. In capable hands, however, Baga becomes one of Iberia’s most compelling reds. Savoury, structured and quietly long lived.
Luis Pato set the benchmark decades ago, while Filipa Pato has done more than anyone to rehabilitate the grape without sanding off its edges. Bairrada does not function without Baga, and its issue is not survival but lingering prejudice.
White Wine Grapes
Timorasso: Piedmont, Italy
Timorasso should make producers of expensive white Burgundy mildly uncomfortable. Textural, mineral and quietly powerful, it ages effortlessly and performs superbly at the table. Its near extinction now looks like a collective lapse in judgement.
Walter Massa is the reason Timorasso exists in any meaningful way today. Without him, it would likely be a historical footnote. Producers such as Vietti have since helped bring it wider attention. Timorasso is no longer endangered. The risk now is dilution rather than disappearance.
Savagnin: Jura, France
Savagnin is often described as difficult, which is polite shorthand for uninterested in being charming. Whether topped up or oxidative, it delivers umami, grip and structural authority that few white grapes can match. It does not perform but expects you to pay attention.
Domaine Tissot and Domaine Jean Macle continue to define its range and longevity. Savagnin is protected by appellation rules and regional pride. Culturally and legally it is safe, and its only real vulnerability is being misunderstood.
Dry Furmint: Tokaj, Hungary
Furmint is famous but trapped by its success in sweet wine. Dry Furmint is something else entirely. Taut, mineral and transparent to site, it ages with precision and restraint. One of Central Europe’s great white grapes, quietly operating outside the spotlight or influencer babble.
Istvan Szepsy produces reference examples, while Kiralyudvar demonstrates its stylistic range. Furmint is not going anywhere, and Tokaj as a region depends on it. The problem is not survival, but recognition.
Assyrtiko: Mainland Greece
Santorini dominates the narrative, but mainland Assyrtiko deserves equal respect. Linear, saline and precise, it handles heat, smoke and seafood without theatrics.
Gaia Estate and Ktima Gerovassiliou have shown that Assyrtiko does not require volcanic drama to be compelling. The grape is expanding. The risk here is not extinction, but sameness.
Silvaner: Old Vine Germany
Silvaner’s greatest weakness is subtlety. Old vine examples deliver texture, savoury depth and quiet authority, particularly at the table. They do not shout, which in modern wine culture is a strategic error.
Weingut Rudolf May and Weingut Am Stein remain committed advocates. Silvaner as a grape is safe. Old vine Silvaner is less guaranteed, its future resting on whether growers choose patience over replacement.
Final Harvest
Wine grapes survive not because they become famous, but because they are poured, understood and valued. The ones that vanish rarely fail in the glass, and most of these grapes are not dying. They are simply losing the argument at the wine shop shelf. You ca help change that.
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Dec 21, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Wine has been many things through history. A social glue. A quiet companion for long evenings. A diplomatic shortcut at questionable business dinners. Yet long before sommeliers debated minerality with alarming seriousness, wine was performing a far loftier task, acting as a bridge between the earthly and the divine. Humanity discovered fermentation, raised a cup, and suddenly the gods felt a touch more approachable. Perhaps they even smiled back after the third glass.
In the ancient world, the marriage between vineyards and temples was entirely logical. A drink that began life as humble grapes and ended with a pleasantly altered world view held a symbolic charm that water could never hope to deliver. In Egypt and Mesopotamia, wine appeared in offerings and royal ceremonies that tracked the seasons. To sip wine was to taste a little witchcraft. To offer it to the gods was generous, diplomatic, and motivated by the desire to avoid unpleasant surprises at harvest time.
Judaism added structure and discipline to the relationship. Wine became part of ritual in a deliberate and thoughtful way. On the Sabbath, the Kiddush blesses a cup of wine that draws a clear line between the working week and sacred time. Passover requires four cups, each representing a stage of liberation. The script is precise, and the mood is contemplative. The wine is there to lift the ceremony, not the celebrant. It is spiritual elevation with well defined boundaries.
Christianity adopted wine and assigned it a weight that shaped centuries of devotion. In the Eucharist, the wine represents the blood of Christ. It is not appreciated for aroma or acidity, but for its deep symbolic meaning. Remembrance, sacrifice, and renewal reside in a single cup. Some communities use wine while others prefer grape juice, yet the message remains intact. Throughout history, a chalice on an altar has stirred more emotion than the grandest wine cellar.
Hindu traditions add their own colourful variation. In most practice, alcohol is avoided, yet certain regional and Tantric rites employ wine as part of tightly controlled ceremonies. These are not opportunities for unabashed merriment. They are precise acts of symbolism, where wine represents transformation and the dissolution of the ordinary self. It functions as a tool for spiritual insight rather than indulgence. The focus is not the palate, but the philosophy.
Ancient Greece and Rome, never shy about fun and festivals, embraced wine with dramatic flair. Dionysus and Bacchus presided over events where wine symbolised freedom, joy, and the delicious tension between order and ecstasy. Despite modern imagination, the symposium was not a reckless drinking spree. It was structured conversation aided by wine, not drowned by it. It encouraged debate, reflection, and occasionally a highly optimistic attempt at poetry or song writing. The ancients understood that a shared cup could unlock a shared state of mind.
Across indigenous and traditional cultures, fermented beverages hold their own sacred authority. Georgian Qvevri wine is blessed at seasonal rituals. Andean Chicha is offered to Pachamama. African palm wine marks marriages, harvests, and rites of passage. In these settings, the drink represents continuity, ancestry, and profound respect for the land – a reminder that life sits atop deep cultural roots.
Take away the stylistic differences and a simple truth emerges. Wine is a small everyday miracle in a glass, a reminder that grapes can improve dramatically with a little patience and the right conditions. People often do the same, especially when a balanced red in your glass gives the world around you a gentle glow.
Of course, everyone knows at least one person who can turn a casual wine tasting note into a theological argument about oak, climate, and the moral duty of proper decanting. When that happens, the best remedy is to drink more wine. You will find peace, and even the most agnostic person in the room will hear the angels sing.
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Oct 15, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Few grape varieties have changed the conversation around cool-climate winemaking quite like Solaris. Created in Germany in the 1970s, it has since found a second life in northern Europe and Canada, proving that serious wines can be made in regions once considered too cold or too damp for viticulture.
German beginnings
Solaris was bred in 1975 at the Freiburg Wine Institute, part of an ongoing effort to produce grapes that could withstand northern European conditions. Its lineage is complex – Merzling crossed with a Seyve-Villard hybrid, and a Riesling × Pinot Gris line. The intended result was a grape that ripens early, resists mildew, and still carries the aromatic character winegrowers and drinkers look for. The name, meaning “of the sun,” nods to its ability to ripen quickly and dependably.
What growers value
For a grower, Solaris solves a big problem. It reaches maturity weeks ahead of many vinifera varieties, often by the end of August. In climates where autumn comes fast and frost can destroy a harvest, that reliability is a major advantage. Its resistance to fungal diseases further reduces risk and lowers the need for heavy spraying, which is why it has become popular among organic and low-intervention producers.
What drinkers taste
The wines themselves are surprisingly expressive. Solaris shows tropical fruit, such as pineapple, mango, sometimes passionfruit. In cooler years, the profile shifts toward green apple and lime, bringing it closer to Sauvignon Blanc. Its natural sugars can be high, which gives winemakers the flexibility of creating dry wines with weight and ripeness, late-harvest and icewine styles, or even sparkling wines with crisp fruit.
Where it grows now
Though German by origin, Solaris has been adopted with enthusiasm further north. Sweden and Denmark both produce award-winning examples, using it to define a new style of Scandinavian white wine. In the UK, Solaris joins Bacchus and Pinot Noir Précoce as part of the country’s expanding still-wine portfolio. Canada, particularly Ontario, has also embraced it, where its combination of ripeness and acidity works well for both dry and sweet expressions.
Looking ahead
Solaris is not just a technical solution for challenging climates; it’s also a marker of where wine is heading. As producers search for varieties that need fewer chemical treatments and that can cope with shifting weather patterns, grapes like Solaris offer an alternative to the traditional canon. Consumers, meanwhile, are discovering distinct wines from new places, expanding the definition of what fine wine regions look like.
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Oct 10, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
History
Wine production in Malta dates back thousands of years. The Phoenicians introduced vines and viticulture to the islands as early as 800 BC. Later, Roman settlers expanded vineyard plantings and embedded wine in daily life and trade. During the Arab period, vine cultivation declined but was not erased. The arrival of the Knights of St John in the sixteenth century gave viticulture new momentum. The Knights encouraged planting, and wine was both consumed locally and traded across the Mediterranean.
In the nineteenth century, phylloxera devastated many European vineyards. Malta was affected less severely but nonetheless saw a restructuring of its vineyards. British colonial presence also influenced wine consumption patterns, introducing fortified wines and a taste for imported labels. For much of the twentieth century, Maltese wines were dominated by bulk production with limited international exposure. From the 1970s onward, investment in modern winemaking began to raise quality standards. EU membership in 2004 reinforced regulatory frameworks and introduced protected designations that helped shape Malta’s contemporary wine identity.
Appellations
Malta’s small land area and limited vineyard holdings mean its wine sector is compact yet regulated. Two designations now structure production: DOK (Denominazzjoni ta’ Origini Kontrollata) for wines from Malta and from Gozo, and IĠT (Indikazzjoni Ġeografika Tipika) for broader geographical wines. These frameworks mirror continental European models and provide producers with a clear labeling system.
The country’s warm Mediterranean climate, moderated by sea breezes, provides conditions well suited to both indigenous and international grape varieties. Rainfall is scarce in summer, making water management a critical aspect of viticulture. The limestone soils, ranging from deep clay to rocky outcrops, add further variation in vineyard expression.
Grape Varieties
Maltese vineyards host a mix of native and international grapes. The two principal indigenous varieties are Gellewza (red) and Girgentina (white). Gellewza has traditionally produced light reds and rosés, though modern vinification has shown its potential for more structured styles. Girgentina is valued for producing fresh white wines suited to local cuisine and climate.
Alongside these, international grapes dominate acreage. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, and Chardonnay are widely planted. Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and Moscato have also found niches. Producers often use international grapes to make varietal wines for export markets, while native varieties remain an anchor for wines aimed at emphasizing Maltese heritage.
Main Wines
The Maltese portfolio today spans red, white, and rosé wines, with sparkling and sweet wines appearing in smaller volumes.
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Red wines: Based largely on Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, often blended with Gellewza. These wines can range from youthful fruit-driven styles to more complex barrel-aged expressions.
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White wines: Chardonnay leads, sometimes blended with Girgentina or Sauvignon Blanc. Whites often emphasize freshness and balance.
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Rosé wines: Popular locally, produced mainly from Gellewza or blends with Syrah.
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Sparkling wines: A niche category, often from Chardonnay and Girgentina, produced both by Charmat and traditional methods.
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Sweet wines: Limited but present, sometimes from Moscato or late-harvested Girgentina.
The sector is led by a handful of major wineries, including Marsovin and Delicata, which operate extensive vineyard contracts and modern facilities. Smaller boutique producers have emerged, often highlighting native grapes and artisanal methods. Together, they ensure that Malta offers both commercial volumes and niche wines.
Market Reach
Malta’s domestic market is the principal outlet, with restaurants, hotels, and tourism driving demand. The local population is small, so visitor consumption plays an essential role in sustaining volumes. Cruise passengers, resort guests, and business travelers are introduced to Maltese wines, often leading to modest export opportunities.
Exports remain limited due to small production and high domestic demand. The United Kingdom, Italy, and northern European countries are the main external markets. Export strategies often focus on wines that emphasize Maltese origin and heritage, such as bottlings of Gellewza and Girgentina, while international varietals compete in broader markets.
Outlook
The Maltese wine industry stands at the intersection of history and modern practice. While volume will always be modest, there is space for growth in recognition, particularly through tourism and niche export markets. Trade professionals assessing Malta should note its dual identity: on one hand, a heritage of Gellewza and Girgentina, and on the other, a commercially viable range of international varietals. Its wines reflect a unique Mediterranean setting and a determined focus on consistent quality. For aficionados, Maltese wines represent a compact but distinctive addition to the wider European portfolio.
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Oct 5, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
Ribolla Gialla is a white grape with roots in northeastern Italy. Historical records trace it back to the Middle Ages, when it was planted widely in the Collio hills near the Slovenian border. Across the frontier it is called Rebula, where it has long been grown in the Goriška Brda and Vipava Valley. While once considered a local wine for everyday use, it has become the poster child of modern Friulian whites and the revival of long-maceration styles that shaped today’s “Orange Wine” movement.
Geographical Reach
The variety’s core lies in Friuli Venezia Giulia—Collio, Colli Orientali, Isonzo, and Carso—where producers treat it as a regional signature. In Slovenia, especially Brda and Vipava, Rebula is equally important, forming a bridge across a shared wine culture. Smaller but growing plantings exist in Croatia’s Istria, Austria’s Styria, and more recently in experimental vineyards in California, Oregon, and New Zealand. Outside its European base, plantings remain rare, but the grape is attracting interest among winemakers looking for fresh, high-acid whites or suitable grapes for skin-contact winemaking.
Wines Styles
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Dry Whites: Typically fermented in stainless steel or large neutral casks. Wines are pale, light on fruit, and emphasize acidity and texture.
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Skin-Contact “Orange” Wines: Ribolla Gialla’s thick skins make it well suited for extended maceration. These wines range from golden to amber, with firm tannins. They are central to the Friulian and Slovenian tradition of orange wines.
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Sparkling: The grape’s high acidity is ideal for metodo classico sparkling wines as well as lighter Charmat-method styles. These are increasingly seen in Friuli, sometimes marketed as a regional specialty.
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Sweet and Late Harvest: Produced occasionally in warm vintages, usually in very small volumes.
Main Labels
Cellaring
Classic dry Ribolla is best enjoyed within a few years for freshness, while skin-contact versions can age for a decade or more. Sparkling Ribolla is a younger development, but several Friulian houses are positioning it as an identity wine for the region. Increasing international plantings suggest that Ribolla Gialla may continue to find a niche among winemakers searching for high-acid, versatile grapes adaptable to both traditional and experimental styles.
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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by lspeed | Sep 21, 2025 | DECODING GRAPES: FROM VINES TO VINTAGE
When people think of Burgundy wines, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate the conversation. Yet tucked into corners of this famous region grows a grape that has long played a supporting role, occasionally overlooked but increasingly appreciated: Aligoté. This white grape may not have the glamour of its golden neighbor Chardonnay, but it carries a crisp personality and an enduring tradition worth knowing.
Origins and History
Aligoté is believed to have originated in Burgundy, where written references date back to the 18th century. It is a natural crossing of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, the latter being a prolific “parent” grape responsible for several European varieties. Historically, Aligoté was planted in less prestigious vineyard sites, often on higher, cooler slopes where Chardonnay struggled to ripen. For generations, it served as a workhorse grape, producing simple, tangy wines that locals drank young or blended into sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne.
Style and Characteristics
At its best, Aligoté offers a bright, linear profile. It is typically light-bodied with elevated acidity, making it refreshing and food-friendly. Flavors lean toward green apple, citrus zest, white flowers, and sometimes a faint nuttiness with age. Unlike Chardonnay, which can take on opulence from oak and malolactic fermentation, Aligoté is usually made in a straightforward, unoaked style to preserve its crispness. The result is a wine that is less about plush texture and more about clarity and refreshment.
Regional Expressions
The spiritual home of Aligoté remains Burgundy, where the appellation Bourgogne Aligoté AOC was created in 1937 to protect and promote the grape. Within this, the Bouzeron AOC, established in 1997, is dedicated solely to Aligoté. Bouzeron’s wines, particularly from producers like Domaine A. & P. de Villaine, show that this grape can rise above its reputation for simplicity when planted on the right soils and given careful attention.
Beyond Burgundy, Aligoté has spread to Eastern Europe, particularly Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, and Russia, where it became widely planted in the 20th century. In these countries it was often used for blending, though some varietal bottlings exist. More recently, small plantings in Oregon, California, and even England have surfaced, offering new interpretations of its bright style.
Cultural Role
Perhaps Aligoté’s most enduring cultural contribution is its role in the Kir cocktail. The drink—white wine with a splash of crème de cassis—was popularized in Dijon in the mid-20th century, when the local mayor, Félix Kir, promoted it as a regional specialty. At the time, Aligoté was seen as a rather tart wine on its own, so the cassis liqueur softened its sharpness. Today, Kir remains a symbol of Burgundian conviviality.
Contemporary Reputation
In recent decades, Aligoté has benefited from a reassessment. As Chardonnay prices and prestige continue to climb, wine drinkers seeking value and freshness are turning to this once-humble grape. In the hands of quality-focused growers, Aligoté can be nuanced, mineral-driven, and surprisingly age-worthy. While it will likely never unseat Chardonnay as Burgundy’s crown jewel, it has secured a loyal following and a place in the global conversation about distinctive, characterful white wines.
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Churrasco Phuket Steakhouse serves affordable Wagyu and Black Angus steaks and burgers. We are open daily from 12noon to 11pm at Jungceylon Shopping Center in Patong / Phuket.
We are family-friendly and offer free parking and Wi-Fi for guests. See our menus, reserve your table, find our location, and check all guest reviews here:
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