The term Appassimento is most commonly associated with deep, brooding red wines, such as Amarone. But a small group of winemakers, primarily in northern Italy, have crafted white Appassimento wines for centuries. These golden-hued bottlings offer rich textures, complexity, and a freshness that belies their concentration. Though rare, white Appassimento wines are gaining traction among sommeliers and curious wine aficionados.
The Method
The Appassimento technique involves drying grapes after harvest to reduce water content and concentrate sugars, acids, and phenolics. This process dates back to Roman times and was traditionally practiced by laying grapes on straw mats or hanging them from rafters. In the Veneto region, this became central to producing wines like Recioto and Amarone.
While most Appassimento wines are red, there is historical precedent for white versions. Sweet white passiti, often made from varieties like Garganega, Malvasia, or Moscato, have long been crafted across Italy. These dessert wines are older cousins to white Appassimentos, but the modern dry or off-dry white versions are a relatively recent phenomenon.
Rare & Niche
White Appassimento wines are rare for several reasons. First, the risk of rot and oxidation is greater with white grapes during the drying process, requiring extreme care and controlled conditions. Second, consumer demand for oxidative or rich white wines has historically been limited compared to the broader market for reds.
Third, there is no DOC or formal classification that clearly champions dry white Appassimento wines, meaning producers must innovate outside traditional appellation frameworks. Despite these hurdles, some winemakers persist, motivated by tradition, experimentation, or the desire to coax extra complexity from local grapes.
Prominent Producers
In Italy, the most notable white Appassimento wines come from the Veneto. Among the few producers embracing them is Masi Agricola. Known for its role in internationalizing Amarone, Masi has extended its expertise to white grapes. One example is their Masianco, a blend of Pinot Grigio and Verduzzo grapes.
Pieropan have occasionally used Appassimento techniques to create rich, barrel-aged versions of Soave using partially dried Garganega grapes. Cantina di Negrar, a co-op in Valpolicella, has produced white wines using the Appassimento method from native grapes like Garganega and Trebbiano di Lugana.
Another example is Le Fraghe near Lago di Garda, which has explored white Appassimento styles using local varieties and minimal intervention methods. Further south, Maestro Italiano in Puglia promotes its Appassimento Bianco Puglia, and Donnafugata in Sicily uses semi-dried Zibibbo grapes for its white wines, though often still in sweeter or semi-sweet formats.
Even in Switzerland’s Ticino region, Gialdi Vini makes a white Merlot via partial drying, demonstrating the method’s appeal beyond Italy.
What’s In The Glass
White Appassimento wines are about contrast – richness meets lift, power meets elegance. Depending on vinification choices, they can range from full-bodied, golden, and textured to bright, floral, and nutty. Common tasting notes include preserved lemon, dried apricot, baked apple, chamomile, almond skin, and a saline or mineral finish. Oak aging adds further layers of vanilla, toast, or spice in some bottlings.
Alcohol levels are often higher (13.5%–15%), but the best examples maintain balance thanks to naturally high-acid grapes and thoughtful winemaking. While still a niche category, white Appassimento wines offer an alternative to Chardonnay or Viognier for those seeking texture and complexity without excessive sweetness. As natural wine, low-intervention, and oxidative styles grow in popularity, these rare whites may finally receive the broader appreciation they deserve.
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